Departure 2014-Feb-07 - 14.00     Arrival 2014-Feb-07 - 17.00

After two weeks of driving through South Africa (and Lesotho) I finally arrive to Capetown. It feels good to be in the city again.... especially a city with lively streets, a minimum of fences and a somewhat relaxed feel to it (all in comparison to Johannesburg).

Finding accommodation here turns out to be a problem, as the whole of Europe seems to hibernate in Capetown. Luckily, At Forest still has a room available and it was a lucky find. This sweet B&B is located in Gardens, one of the central districts, and in walking distance to Table Mountain and Kloof Street, where there is lots of bars and restaurants. I spend relaxing 4 days here until I start traveling again.

In Capetown you should not miss hiking up at least one of the mountains: Lionhead or Table Mountain. I went for the latter one. To go up there you have to overcome 1000m in altitude which actually is a pretty tough work-out ( for me, at least!). If you don't want to do that: go for the cable car!

There is several paths up, one of them through the Platteclip Gorge. Even though I left way too late and get struck by the sun at noon, I hike up in a little more than 2 hours. Not too bad.... It was intensely hot, though. Surprisingly, up on the top there isn't a plain but a vast, rocky stretch and a cold wind blowing. Apparently, the top can be stuck in clouds for days, I get told. The vegetation here is beautifully diverse and after strolling around on the top for a while, enjoying the view on Capetown, Robin Island and the Lionhead, I decide to go down the other side, through the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. It is another 3 hour hike, but well worth it. The table mountain just looks completely different on the one side than on the other. 

Unfortunately, I haven't arranged any transportation to bring me back to my B&B when getting down. But .... South Africans being super helpful and friendly ... I can hitch a ride with other hikers that are coincidentally on their way to Gardens afterwards.

Departure 2014-Feb-11 - 9.00     Arrival 2014-Feb-11 - 19.30

Leaving Capetown I head to Franschoek via Simonstown, a small coast town, located on the way to the Cape of Good Hope. I stop there to go diving with the Piscesdivers. Not with the Great White, but with seals and the Seven-Gil-Cowshark. I had already heard the Atlantic Ocean can get pretty cold here, thus I prepare myself for freezing cold water. Yet, after getting into a 7mm wetsuit plus an extra top-layer plus gloves plus a hat I am about to get a heat-stroke and I can't wait to jump in. It is refreshing at first but soon gets veeeerrrrry cold ... 16 degrees water temperature for 50min and 4m visibility with strong swells - these are not my preferred diving conditions. Really,not! Diving with seals and cowsharks is exciting, though. I am just not sure if I would do it again...

However, leaving Simonstown I go along the coast towards the winelands, Franschhoek is my destination. I will spend a few days in the Ottersband Lodge, camping in their plantations. This beautiful farm caters backpackers, is located in walking distance to the cities centre and has beautiful views on the surrounding mountains.

I am repeating myself saying "This rather feels like Europe than South Africa", but it is true. Especially, with all these (elderly) tourists around. It is nice though and I enjoy a whole day of winetouring - tasting all the different products of the local vineyards. Especially Boschendal is impressive, with it's vast estate and long history. I do understand why some people come back here every winter!

Departure 2014-Feb-13 - 15.00     Arrival 2014-Feb-14 - 15.00

After days indulging myself in wine, I travel back to the coast and up to Paternoster. Eventually, I am headed for Namibia so I need to go north. The west coast is famous for its strong winds and cold water and is packed with kite-surfers on the day I pass.

Arriving in Paternoster I find myself in a small fishermen's town, turned into a weekend / holiday destination for people from the Cape. Even though the limewashed houses with big chimneys look hospitable, I end up on camping in the Groot Paternoster Private Nature Reserve. Here, they have a large area along the coast where people can camp wherever they like. Pitching the tent right next to the ocean, far away from everyone else, it appears to be all alone with the sea. A paradise it is!

continue with ... NORTHERN CAPE