Departure 2014-Apr-01 - 10.30     Arrival 2014-Apr-01 - 14.00

Even though Mutare is only a 300km ride from the capital Harare, this city feels way different. More like a village than actually a town. Located in a mountainous area it is surrounded by tea- and coffee plantations. And even though I am only meant to pass through on my way to Mozambique I end up staying in this area for a few days.

Departure 2014-Apr-02 - 9.00     Arrival 2014-Apr-03 - 12.00

After camping one night in the driveway of Anne Bruce Backpacker's I take a trip to the highlands north of Mutare: the scenic route through Honde Valley, passing Mtarazi falls. Up to the turn-off to Mtarazi falls the raod is frequently traveled. The last bit to the 400+m falls is a 16km path leading through a forestry-area. Hardly anyone is here, besides some locals who are obviously confused to see an overlander passing through.  

To actually see the top of Mtarazi falls, where the water drops down into Honde Valley, you have to take a short walk through a National Park. Yet, the entrance-gate is empty and I can just enter, park the car and decide to prepare a small breakfast before I take the stroll to the falls. I think .... but in the very moment I start walking, some sleepy looking guy in a uniform turns up. Apologetic for not having 'welcomed' me right at the entrance gate, he then tries to claim 20$ to visit the National Park and the falls. Some polite questions, explanations, smiles and a can of coke are enough to convince this fella he needn't charge me this exaggerated fee.

Still, the officer feels obliged to accompany me to the falls. So we walk together through the forest, chat away - me happy to have not payed the fee, the ranger happy with the cold coke in his hand. Just when I hear the sound of something dropping in the grass I turn around and see this is the can of coke and burst out laughing. "Really??" What kind of ranger in what kind of National Park is he, I wonder. "I will pick it up tomorrow ... when I have my clean-up day" he tries to justify.... Right!

This part of Zimbabwe, probably (again...) the most rural part of Africa I have been to yet, is stunning! I drive through tea fields in Honde Valley, see workers, children and women walking alongside the road, get stopped by polite police officers (who see if they can get some money off me) and go on and on until the road is hardly recognisable anymore.

And even though I know this is the "right road" I am driving on, I frequently ask people along the way if this is leading me in the right direction or not. "Yes - it is! It is a tough road - but you will make it" is one of the promising comments I get for taking this path.

And really, this is the toughest road so far! To only get half way and to the campground I made out on the map I pass villages with people who hardly ever see foreigners, valleys and hordes of school kids running after the car; I travel on a dirt-road I would not have thought possible to exist (or be called a road even). When I finally arrive at the campground (a neglected, formerly beautiful lodge right at a small river), the sun is about to set and I am exhausted like never before. I am too tired to worry about anything, simply am amazed by this valley and its undisturbed beauty. At 8PM it feels like midnight and I crash in the tent. Tomorrow is another day ...

Coming out of Honde Valley I need one more night in Mutare before I make my way over and into Chimoio, Mozambique. The "little detour" I had taken was too impressive to just keep on going to the next country the same day. Thus, I spend another night at the backpackers. This time in a bedroom - not in the driveway.

continue with ... MOZAMBIQUE