Departure 2014-Mar-27 - 9.00     Arrival 2014-Mar-28 - 19.00

In Victoria Falls I decided to not travel all the way up to Tanzania to see Mount Kilimanjaro, instead stay south of Malawi and "simply" cross Zimbabwe to get to Mozambiques coastline and do some diving. To see Malawi, Tanzania and Kenia I would probably take another three months, if not longer. Zimbabwe and southern Mozambique will be impressive enough ... I am sure!

So the roadtrip continues to Kariba along Lake Kariba, the worlds largest man-made lake by volume. With 220km in length I am sure I have never passed such a long stretch of water ever before, anywhere. The road is not tarred in most parts and the 500km from Victoria Falls to Kariba will be a looooong trip. Especially as the police is having multiple checkpoints on the way.

Driving through rural Zimbabwe I feel like I only now have arrived in Africa. The road leads through the bush, is made of red sand covered with hugh rocks and potholes. In parts it rather feels like driving in a dry riverbed than on a road. I pass through local-african-everyday-scenes, villages, small shops, farmers, ox carts and many people (mostly women) walking along the road, carrying all sorts of things on their heads. This seems to be an african phenomenon: people are walking, everywhere and at all times! Even when you have been driving for hours without seeing anyone it can happen that suddenly, out of nowhere, someone appears walking aside the road.... And repeatedly I ask myself: Where are they going?

Kariba is a town where it is "all about fishing and drinking beer" it says in my guidebook. Arriving there, I understand what they are talking about. The town of Kariba obviously had better days! It is pretty run down and most of the resorts, lodges and campsites are empty - they look like they haven't seen a visitor in a long time.

Arriving at sunset, the first night I camp at Warthogs Bushcamp, which is run and dominated by the local white minority, spending their weekend at the lake drinking beer ... Next day I change to Mopani Bay Camping, an awesom place next door, which is run by the local black majority. Zebras, elephants and hippos trott over the campground and locals enjoy the lake, listening to local music and are ... drinking beer. 

Departure 2014-Mar-30 - 9.30     Arrival 2014-Mar-30 - 15.30

Even though I am not very keen on it, I have to stop by Harare, Zimbabwes capital, to organize my visa for Mozambique.

Obviously, this city has seen better days as well, but the fact that Mr. Mugabe and his peers are residing here gives this town a special feel. As a matter of fact, Zimbabwe's government has a dark reputation but Zimbabwe's people are well friendly, hospitable and helpful. They are welcoming towards tourists, acknowledging the fact that people are starting to come back and travel in their country, the former bread-basket of Africa. And even though Harare is a large city, I feel surprisingly safe here. Just not comfortable enough to stay longer then needed, though...

"Mozambique is not safe" people in South Africa said. With this in mind, I inquire for the political situation with fellow travelers and locals coming from the boarder towns of Mutare, Zimbabwe and Chimoio, Mozambique. They give good advise and no one had experienced anything frightening, neither the one biking nor the one backpacking through "the most dangerous parts" of Mozambique. It is not only important to inquire locally about road- and weather-conditions but also about the political situation in each country. Many times small issues are well blown-up by the press, for which reason ever, and it is up to you to take the right decision. Mine is to first go to Mutare to then enter Mozambique. 

continue with ... EASTERN HIGHLANDS